![]() To illustrate the increase in scale that Patek Philippe were able to handle while producing the 3970, if you combine the amount of 15s produced, they still wouldn’t reach 20 percent of the total 3970s that left the manufacture. Not only were they both examples of a massive increase in complex production numbers, but they also seem to incorporate more modern design tendencies that would help redefine what a Patek Philippe watch looked like. 3940 perpetual calendar, was released at nearly the same time – and these two watches marked a new era for Patek Philippe watchmaking. ![]() The 2499 ceased production in 1985, replaced by the ref. Today this rarity really plays into its favour as it drives up desirability on the open market. To reiterate what we said before, this can seem like a fairly limited number when we think of what the brand is capable of today, but the market was not as mature as it is now, and there was no call for these highly complex watches to be made at a higher rate. 2499 watches are known to have been produced during its 35-year production run. The visual identity of Patek Philippe can be seen to grow through this reference, its four clearly defined series illustrating how the brand wanted to move its aesthetics towards modern tastes, reflecting the wider shifts seen in design around the mid century. It seems to tick every box for passionate collectors: rarity, complexity, model evolution and desirable unique pieces. For many, the 2499 is the gold standard by which all other perpetual calendar chronographs are measured. To have two extremely complex models in production simultaneously was a bold move by the brand, and shows their dominance in this space at the time. 2499, by roughly five years the newer model was introduced in 1950. There was a slight crossover period between the 1518 and its successor, the ref. At this stage, the world of watchmaking was still in its infancy when it came to industrialisation. To be clear, that’s not 20 different models or references, but 20 individual watches featuring double complications. This limited total number of less than 300 may seem small today, compared to modern production figured however, to put it into context, Audemars Piguet only produced 20 double-complication wristwatches prior to 1992. Only 281 left the manufacture, with steel being by far the rarest of the metal types, with just four pieces known. More than 80 years later, it would be fair to say that they were successful. Many regard the perpetual calendar chronographs as the marquee complication of the brand, and when the 1518 was released just nine years after the Stern family took control of the company, it was clear the new owners were looking to make their mark. The 1518 represents a real milestone in the history of Patek Philippe. With a number of in-depth guides detailing various aspects of the watch, and more and more examples appearing at auction, it’s clear that this is a watch on the ascendancy. However, along with many other neo-vintage models, the 3970 has been getting far more public recognition lately. This era of watchmaking was one of transition and transformation, but also one that was long considered second rate by the earliest of collectors. ![]() The Patek Philippe reference 3970 was first released in 1986, a date which places it in the early stages of neo-vintage by our definition. The subject of this guide has firmly fallen in this second category. ![]() Only recently, with the explosion of interest in the secondary watch market, and a shift in focus to more modern watches, have we seen real academic rigour being placed on these previously underappreciated watches. However, others have flown under the radar for years, never attracting a lot of attention at auction or through private sales. The level of appreciation and academic research seems to have constantly been high for these blue-chip pieces. Some watches seem to have long been focused on by collectors – pieces that are admired by the old guard and new wave alike, whether it is a Rolex Daytona or a Patek Philippe 2499. ![]()
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